Zanzibar Dreams - Part 4 - Stone Town Nightclubs, Prison Island, Giant Tortoises, Nakupenda Island

(September 2020, from my journals; Six Weeks in Africa during a pandemic and divorce). Previous post: https://secondchapternomad.blog/2023/06/24/zanzibar-dreams-part-3-red-colobus-monkeys-spice-farm-tour-and-a-fish-taco-with-a-side-of-spider-2/

(From the beginning of the Africa posts: Tanzania Tales – Part 1 – Take off! California to Zanzibar! (Later Dar es Salaam with stops in Nungwi and Mnemba Island)(Opens in a new browser tab)

https://www.expedia.com/shop/second-chapter-nomad/africa (small commission if booked through me)

Sabrina and Kelvin

Sabrina introduced me to her music artist Kelvin (who will be in Part 5 in the music video we shot). He came to meet me in Stone Town, then we travelled across the island to meet my son and GF back from mainland adventures, and Sabrina again. Some spontaneous live music with the few hotel inhabitants in these Covid times.

Day 31 – Night Clubs to Nakupenda

Girls night out with son’s GF. Ended up at local discos 6 Degrees and 5K, dancing with Alladin and Alibaba (for real!) til 4:00 am. Woke up dreadfully hungover realizing I’d booked Mohammed to take son and GF on his dhow to Nakupenda Island. We zipped across the choppy sea, fresh air reviving us. Mohammed prepared us a seafood extravaganza on the sand spit of an island, cooking right there, cleaning the pots with sand and seawater.

Reunited!

Day 33 – Streets of Zanzibar and Tembo Hotel

Mostly I’m trying to work this week. But just a little outing is always an adventure, exhausting, an overload of the senses, dusty, hot, full of endless “Mambo-Poa-Jambo-Poa-Karibu-Asante-Habari-Mazuri-Asante” – it can go on and on. So this evening I finally stumble back to my little oasis of the Tembo Hotel where one of the doting staff Ishak (who found me Mohammad the Boatman, and took me on his motorcycle to try and fix my phone last week) had… presents awaiting me!! The staff here (and everywhere) makes between $5-10/day. He had a tank top, a wrap, and a soccer jersey for me. Just because.

The Housekeepers and Staff

Being a predominately Muslim country, there are only male workers except for the housekeepers. As I stepped out of the shower tonight, I found Asha and Fatma in my room. Startled, I squealed. They weren’t phased, but kept spraying mosquito repellant and doing “turn down” which means setting up mosquito nets. They have never talked to me before. Now, with my wet hair in a turban, they said how beautiful I was, and was I twenty years old? Bless their souls! So I took their photo as well.

They made me promise to take photos with them tomorrow when I wasn’t out of the shower. My room is center court, with the male staff aware of my every coming and going. If I’m late for breakfast I hear it. If I’m leaving at night they make sure to know where I’m off to, and they check in dutifully upon my return. I have never felt so looked after on my own!

They all know I’m writing about Zanzibar, and they are so excited and proud, and hope that I share the message of their welcoming country and culture.

one of my fave dishes

My rafiki (friend) who gave me the gifts and took me on errands on his motorcycle

Gifts!

Asha on the right has become a part of my life – see later wedding photo (and later the store we started together)

LATER

Well, in another surreal moment… Just watched from Africa, my son’s Master’s in Chemical and Bioprocess Engineering virtual Conferring Ceremony (aka graduation) in Dublin, Ireland! Wow. I’m a proud mama!! Thank goodness I (along with my parents) were able to attend his Bachelor’s graduation ceremony in Dublin last year pre-pandemic.

DAY 34 Africa

September 1 – this is a good day. Another dream coming true. Only fitting I’m able to sign another screenwriting contract at my magical, inspiring hotel where I’ve recaptured my creative juices. Can’t release details for some time, but trust me, this is the fruits of a long, long journey. Perseverance, persistence, overcoming self-doubt, dusting myself off after years of “no”s, and continuously moving forward, step by baby step. Maisha merefu! (Cheers in Swahili). This buoys me with my other projects that I’m continuously writing and pushing forward, even in these challenging times. Simple message: Never, ever give up.

Sept. 2, 2020 Day 35

Celebrating with tapas at Taperia in Stone Town, Zanzibar. On top of his graduation, my son just found out he was awarded a joint prize for best research project. Congratulations!

So proud of his GF. She graduated IADT (Institute of Art Design and Technology/National Film School Ireland) with a B.A. in 3D Design, Model Making and Digital Art – First Class Honors. Although she was supposed to have a graduation and exhibition (which I would’ve attended!), there is only a virtual website at this time. She is a talented, creative force; anyone will be lucky to work with her in the future. https://www.artstation.com/jacqsmyth3d

9/3/20 Day 36

Trying to work in Africa. Dropped calls. Poor internet. Cash only for transactions. I took a swim break. A fish break. A lay on a boat break. Then Sabrina, my amazing film partner here, and I gave up for the day and had fab pedicures and said “pole pole” (slow slow no worries) and accepted that it will take a few more days. Hakuna Matata. (Oh and I nearly joined a wedding party.)

Day 37

Back to Prison Island with Mohammad on his “Peace & Love” dhow. Another tortoise encounter that turned rather R rated. Must be mating season. Very disturbing. Will never view these prehistoric creatures the same (especially after Big Daddy almost fell upside down on his dismount).

Snorkel and henna

Followed this with yet another snorkel in the deep blue sea jumping off the dhow. Then got another henna tattoo, this time with Natasha off the beach. Shared masala tea and watermelon.

Continuing to live to write, write to live. Embracing the setting, culture and people more and more every day.

Tembo history

My nest

Day 38 – Bit hungover; some late night dancing under the African stars with a Frenchman.

Day 39 -Said goodbye to my son and GF (returning to Ireland) after Lukkeman’s final feast and masala tea at my place. Sad, not knowing when I’ll see them again with borders and Covid, but I hope I’ll see them again soon. What an incredible adventure we’ve had! It’s time for me to be alone again on this African adventure.

Divorce Stress Ongoing

(Side Note: Lingering nagging anxiety over the lack of progress on divorce. My phone isn’t working. My beloved iTunes playlists were erased. Camera roll full. Raging forest fires back home. What is my future? Almost time to go “home”. Home. What is that? Need to sort out divorce and my finances. Such anxiety. Court documents landed in my inbox in the middle of the night. Gut churning. All so unjust. Unfair. Can’t accept defeat. Feel beaten down. I just want to be free! Wanderlust and adventure are taking over. Desire to live on the edge. So much unknown. I was like this in my twenties. The pandemic and divorce had me trapped, anxiety raging through my veins. I feel free here. Another chance. Starting over. Will pursue positivity. Manifest independence.

Stone Town

Some random shots of Stone Town here in Zanzibar. Slice of life.

Kitenges

And can we talk about kitenges? I became obsessed much like I did with the jewelry I collected. Went into dress shops, and to the shopkeepers delight and designers glee, purchased numerous authentic handmade African dresses “kitenges”. They’re so colorful, flattering and comfortable.