Numerous trips to Belfast
I have visited Belfast countless times. Usually on a day trip from Dublin as it’s an easy two hour train ride each way. I’m fascinated by the history, the politics, the impossible for outsiders to understand conflict, still simmering. I have a list of historic pubs, and my absolute favorite seafood restaurant.
October 2025 update at bottom.
hotel recs: https://www.expedia.com/shop/second-chapter-nomad/belfast (small commission received if booking hotels through me)
Black Cab Tours
I’ve taken Black Cab tours https://belfastblackcabtours.co.uk/ numerous times in Belfast, always getting a different perspective based on the driver’s own truth and experiences. There has been tremendous pain and human suffering on all sides. I look at the murals, the Peace Wall. Go into pubs that you still have to be let in to prevent violence. Flags fly that show which side they’re on. What you call a town (Londonderry vs. Derry) or even Northern Ireland vs. Ireland reveals your bias.
Coming from Dublin, Ireland, it’s bizarre to suddenly switch currency from Euros to Pounds, and even electric adaptors, as “Northern Ireland” is part of the UK.
Belfast Titanic Museum
I have found everyone to be very friendly towards an American. I am open to hearing people’s stories. I’m not there to judge or to pretend I understand such deep-rooted history. I keep going back to Belfast. The architecture, food, pubs, people pull me in. I love the Titanic Museum. Talk about a tragedy, and stories of love and loss. https://www.titanicbelfast.com/
I’ve gone many times by myself to Belfast like this most recent trip, April 2024. I have pursued film projects. Read many books set here. I had the opportunity to go with my parents and my son and his GF after his University graduation from University College Dublin in 2019. What a wonderful experience. Drove across the country, visiting places like Giant’s Causeway.
Bangor
Post pandemic my son and I chose Belfast as a common place to meet, he came from Dublin, and I flew in from Scotland. For some reason Belfast was all booked up so we went and spent a weekend in the small seaside town of Bangor, lost in time. We had a memorable weekend exploring, playing ancient games of mini-golf, and pub crawling.
Derry
The first time my son and I went to Belfast was before checking him into Dublin for his original Semester Abroad (that led to his 6 years in Ireland). That’s when we went to Derry and experienced the horrendous Curry Cleanse of Derry. When I listened to my dear boy and went for the curry instead of the pizza, and we were violently ill for two days, and he missed day one of his orientation back in Dublin! Oh, the memories.
Mourne’s Seafood Bar – my favorite seafood restaurant!!
Every time I visit Belfast I make sure and go to Mourne’s Seafood Bar. https://www.mourneseafood.com/belfast/. I love the architecture and murals surrounding it, and the mussels and oysters are superb.
Belfast Pubs
I have to visit Kelly’s Cellars https://kellyscellars.co.uk/ next door, and this last trip I discovered the very intimate Madden’s pub around the corner.
Cathedral Quarter is a great area to walk and visit restaurants and pubs like the Thirsty Goat.
Belfast is another world. It’s an example of how I am drawn to certain places over and over, the familiarity mixed with mystery. The beauty and darkness intertwined.
Belfast – October 2025
The arrival by air from Liverpool. Sunshine! Hit the ground running with a film lunch meeting at the Grand Belfast Hotel. https://expedia.com/affiliates/belfast-hotels-grand-central-hotel-belfast.Gr2qC63
Central Belfast
Followed by “How much can I do in half a day?” A lot! I took a taxi from the airport to my hotel: Jurys Inn Belfast https://expedia.com/affiliates/belfast-hotels-jurys-inn-belfast.D91ELMj It’s walking distance to everywhere in central Belfast, and a five minute walk to the newly renovated Grand Central train station where I departed for Dublin the next morning.
Belfast Pub Crawl
I ran around Belfast hitting my favorite pubs.
- Crown Saloon was a new one for me. I was ordered to get a Guinness (I don’t like beer) so I attempted a half pint. Supposedly one of the best pours in the world. Still a bit bitter for my taste, but I gave it a go.
The rain came for a few minutes, just enough to create magical streetscapes.
2. Duke of York, with some regulars who were fascinated at my “pub alone” status (this was a Monday afternoon lol). This is right by the rainbow umbrellas.
3. Maddens, a very authentic Irish pub where you have to be let in by a buzzer.
4. Kelly’s Cellars for some live Irish music.
Mourne’s Seafood Belfast
And of course I did “Dine Alone” at Mourne Seafood, quite possibly the best oysters, mussels, and seafood chowder ever! I often come to Belfast just to dine here. Must make reservations in advance to not be disappointed.
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