August 2020 (Africa Adventure during a pandemic … and a divorce!) Post 2 of 5
Tanzania Tales – Part 1(Opens in a new browser tab) (previous post)
Kikipeo Beach, South of Dar es Salaam
After long ferry travel day, we relaxed at the beach bar and made new friends, with local Solomon, and Dutch girl Hjordis. After a few drinks she and I thought it would be a grand idea to arrange our own snorkeling “excursion” for the next morning with some fishermen on their dhow, while the guys would chill at the beach. We also met three lovely University girls who shyly approached and wanted to practice English. We bought them sodas, and they shared their stories and goals. Amazing young women pursuing fashion design, business, and other things.
The fishing dhow and a snorkel
Next morning, Hjordis and I were a bit apprehensive when we saw the boat we were to swim to (see photo where I had attempted to dress modestly for the fishermen). If there is one thing I’ve learned in Tanzania, it is to go with the flow “pole pole” (slow slow), and to expect the unexpected. The dhow was a typical wild ride in the Indian Ocean. We kept waiting for the snorkeling. Instead we landed near a deserted island and hopped off into the water. At this point we had to accept we were in our bikinis for the duration. We followed the leader, who had us traipsing after him at a brisk pace. Eventually we learned we were to walk around the entire island. Wish we had brought at least some water, haha. Slipping over tide pools, crawling through coral caves. Running into groups of men who wanted selfies. I shudder to think of my bikini photos being shown around.
We kept waiting for the snorkel, but were told to get back on the boat. We went back out to sea and then were told to jump in for the promised snorkel. Hjordis was particularly scared, so I had to help her. Trying to get back in the dhow from the water with the giggling fishermen was quite the scene.
Towing the Fishermen
We thought the adventure was over, but then we reversed course and picked up a crew of other fishermen that appeared to be stranded. We never knew what was happening. Perhaps they just wanted to be a part of the blonde mzungu adventure. THEN we kept passing fishermen in dug out canoes in the high seas. Two waved and waved for help. So we stopped and threw ropes. They tied themselves to our dhow and proceeded to be pulled all the way to the mainland – all the while with one hand frantically bailing out their canoes, while the other hand used a paddle to try and balance. It was a marvel to watch. I was so worried we were going to lose one. All the fishermen had great laughs at this, and more so at our faces. No understanding of language, but somehow we all bonded and once we were safely back ashore we had shared something special.
In this bedraggled state I had to quickly pack and go to Dar es Salaam airport with my son for our flight to Moshi where we were picked up by a young woman Prisca and driver Eric. Prisca would end up being with us for two weeks and become part of the family.
(Meanwhile, here on Day 27 I’m ready to go off with Asa to Jozani Forest in search of the rare red monkey LOL…Was hoping to meet my son and my son’s GF after 5 days apart, but haven’t been able to reach them. Will post this adventure later.)
Days 10-12 – Moshi, Mainland Tanzania
Upon arrival in Kilimanjaro small airport, the lovely Prisca (university student in Moshi) met us along with a driver Eric. Prisca would become a dear friend/“daughter” and be with us for nearly two weeks. They drove us to our hotel in Moshi and arranged to pick us up the next morning for a “hike to a waterfall”. As usual, we never know what is in store!
We drove through dirt roads and villages. At one point we stopped at a bridge that was impassable. A young man jumped in our car and sat behind me. For about twenty minutes we thought perhaps we were being kidnapped or carjacked (haha). Turns out it was Freddie, no explanation, and he was to be our guide through his village Mataroni to the waterfall.
The hike was on a narrow, muddy rock strewn path, more difficult than I imagined. Little girls appeared wanting to help “mama”. Adorable. We also had a dog join the pack. Finally made it to the waterfall. We were invited to go swimming, but it was far too cold and slippery for me. Prisca at least helped me get my feet in.
On the return, more children followed us like the Pied Piper.
Coffee Boys
The day culminated with the “Coffee Boys” appearing, selling their art work, and giving a hands on demonstration of the coffee making process from beginning to end. This included many songs, dances and laughter, especially watching the mzungus participate! We drank our labors and it was delicious.
We passed our highlight, the Banana Bar. Nearly lost my son permanently there. They make every kind of alcohol imaginable out of bananas. After the long, hot hike, I even enjoyed the banana beer.
After that day, Prisca and Eric drove us to Arusha where we were able to stay at Conselata’s flat for a week!
It was that night that the amazing human rights leader Conselata came to dinner with us and invited me to the school experience the next day.
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