(August 2020; From my journals. Part 3 of 5, Africa in a pandemic and during the divorce)
Tanzania Tales – Part 2 – Kikipeo Beach, Moshi, a Banana Bar and the Coffee Boys(Opens in a new browser tab) (previous post)
The Rural School Visit
One of the most humbling, moving experiences. Met a hero of a woman, Conselata, all by booking her AirBnb. She is the head of gender equality projects for Tusonge Community Development Organization (tusongecdo.org). She invited me to join her on a visit to the extremely impoverished Benjamin Mkapa School in a village outside Moshi. Her organization sponsors Child Rights clubs to train students (choosing 30 high performing students with leadership qualities out of the 1045 students) to be ambassadors to the other students, their families, and community. They welcomed me with songs and exuberant “Mambos!” Shy smiles, wide eyes. Their drawings and words are heart wrenching, speaking of child rape, pregnancy and abuse. The lockdown was exceptionally horrid for many of them, with no escape, and often no access to food which school provides.
My son and I bought journals and colored pencils for all thirty students, and extras for the teachers Mosha and Mtui. I was able to give a little talk (translated into Swahili) about writing their stories and feelings, and assuring them that the world cares about them and wants to hear their voices. It was hard not to cry, seeing the hope and enthusiasm in their eyes. Conselata then passed out a juice and a little sweet, and we had a party. She promised that she’ll send me some of their work. Unforgettable moment.
Arusha Market
My wanderlust fully kicked in and I extended my trip for not the first time. Settled in to Conselata’s two bedroom flat with Zebeda the breakfast cook/housekeeper, and security (no tourists whatsoever in these parts at this time). My son and I hit the dirt, rubble strewn roads to check out the Central Market. An overwhelming attack of the senses – smells, sights, sounds. Some animal images I won’t share. Let’s just say I was invited into more than one butcher shop, given a machete and delightedly encouraged to role play. Yuck!
Mountains of dried fish, squid, fish being chopped in the narrow passageways, every sort of colorful fruit and vegetable. A women’s market where the government has encouraged small businesses for women. Spice stalls. Every sort of grain. We ended up paying a young man Brian to lead us around as it was a bit much in the gigantic maze being eagerly approached non-stop. We had an amazing tutorial from an old Maasai Medicine man. Learned about so many natural remedies.
Boda Bodas
Prisca eventually met us and introduced us to boda bodas (motorcycle taxis) and we embarked on a wild ride to a fun lunch spot.
Then… my son’s GF was arriving!!! We were so excited. We had Prisca and Calvin join our welcoming party at the tiny Kilimanjaro Airport. So happy to see her after so long. We threw her right into the mix with dinner and dancing.
Days 15-17 Arusha – Food to a Village and Boda Bodas!
We took my son’s GF to our favorite little South Indian restaurant for her first day, then met up with Prisca and Brian the market guide again. Showed my son’s GF the market, then watched them hard core bargain for large bags of beans, rice and sugar that Prisca had asked us to deliver to some struggling village families. Little did we know the adventure that awaited!
After at least an hour of bargaining, and chatting with young “bag boys” that eagerly follow to see if you’ll buy a little bag from them (of course we did), we took our large purchases outside into the chaotic streets, only to discover it was boda boda time! We had no idea how far this journey would be, and over dirt paths with holes and hills, through remote villages.
Very satisfying to arrive deep in the village to deliver the food. First to a shanty full of children where the father who can barely walk welcomed us with open arms into his tiny home. We had a lovely chat (as well as we can in Swahili). The children were so excited to see us. Then it was boda boda time to yet another village to another family, this one Maasai, welcoming us. Again, the pride they all had in their modest homes was a long lasting lesson for us.
We continued the long dusty boda boda journey back to town, then jumped in a bijaj to continue the crazy journey back to our flat.
Dinner Time!
Quick clean up to have a very nice Swahili dinner with Conselata (the human rights leader), her sister-in-law and 12 year old twin nephews Jaden and Nathan – and celebrate their birthday! With kuku (chicken), ugali (starch), and sakumu (my favorite collard green dish here). It was a lively, wonderful evening before we were to embark on our safari early the next morning!
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