Journey to Belize (Part 1)
https://www.expedia.com/shop/second-chapter-nomad for hotel recs (small commission received).
Dec. 13, 2024 What a very long day! Started with early breakfast at Casa Chakum in Bacalar, Mexico. I awaited for what I thought was my private taxi to the border to Belize. Instead, a shuttle came and we picked up six others, mostly young solo European backpackers, and one young French couple. One thing about solo travel – you’re never alone! We banded together like a rag tag group for border escapades, as crossing Central American borders by land is never ever easy.
I had asked the hotel and then the “tour operator” numerous times if it was necessary to have cash to exit Mexico or enter Belize. No one ever answered. It’s a fine line as you don’t want to carry a lot of unnecessary pesos into Belize where you can’t use them. This turned out to be a problem!
Mexico – Belize Border Crossing
45 minute drive to the Santa Elena crossing into Belize (not through Chetumal). Our awesome lady driver dropped us at the end of her route as she only works in Mexico. We all waited to enter one by one into the intimidating immigration room. Door slides open, in you go. Out of all of Mexico I got the most unfriendly man straight out of the movies. Only spoke Spanish which I did in response. 700 pesos. Say what!? That’s about $35 cash. Well, I didn’t have it. He says in Spanish, you don’t want to pay, go on. And escorted me out. I discovered he was supposed to have stamped my passport which of course he didn’t, smart ass!
So after finding out a few of my compadres didn’t have cash either, one was able to explain that the airport departure tax somehow covered it. I tried that. Got escorted out a second time – in front of the whole line. Oh, dear. Finally, the “tour operator” who conveniently had never answered me about this, was suddenly able to give me a “loan” of which I could then use my credit card… for a fee. Well, I had no choice. Sr Immigration took the money, stamped my passport with a grunt, and sent me on my way.
Next our posse was handed over to Simon for the Belize side. He moved all our luggage into his van. Mama here was the only one not a “backpacker” and thus toting The Beast. It became a running joke. Fortunately the Mexican and Belizean men are fairly macho and like to show their strength by hoisting The Beast about.
Welcome to Belize
Belize was easy-peasy. Cash only when you exit the country. A big friendly welcome upon entry. As a matter of fact, the immigration officer flashed his dimples and said my arrival today gave him purpose in his life. A bit extreme, but flattering nonetheless. As mentioned in earlier post, Belize having been an English colony, uses English as official language, however locals proudly speak Creole amongst themselves. The clocks moved back an hour at the border.
A travel tip is I ask the drivers if I can sit up front. Not only do I get a great view, I also get to chat with the drivers and learn tidbits about them and their country. It’s great for the young backpackers who all snooze in the back. With Simon this proved a mixed bag as first of all I saw horrendous things I will not describe and he told me even more horrendous tales. My anxiety level shot through the roof (well, not too difficult with the low van roof). We’re talking every sort of tale of doom and gloom. Then he popped on his American country tunes which blared as a soundtrack to the villages and people and dogs alongside the road. 2 1/2 hours later we finally arrived into Belize City (which numerous people have warned me about).
To the “Water Taxi”
I give Simon credit, he guided us expertly into the ferry “water taxi” terminal where you immediately surrender your luggage (the Beast) in exchange for a little ticket like you’d get at the arcade. Trusted the process and was happy to be Beast free. I had my first Belizean meal (in 30 years anyway) of stewed chicken, and their staple of beans and rice much like gallo pinto in Costa Rica. Simon had explained that the beans had better not be white, they’re to be brownish from the fresh (not canned) bean juice, and should be flavored with coconut. Yum! Platanos and potato salad as well.
After catching my breath, it was time to board. Belize travel in style – 1 1/2 hours. I sat up top to get the fresh air and the view (along with extremely knotted hair now). About an hour to Caye Caulker first, then another 30 minutes to San Pedro Town on Ambergris Caye, the site of my visit 32 years ago!
First unpleasant moment I’ve had in awhile was the men descending on me (and the Beast) offering rides, “taxi”s and other services such as “dancing” and getting rid of an ex. Oh my. Pretty overwhelming as there was no official looking taxi area, and I definitely needed help with the Beast to get to my accommodation. One man took pity and told the others to let me out of their circle around me, and then he pointed to what looked like a real taxi. At this point I took it. He had me sit up front, commented on how pretty my dress was, gave me his card and said he’d be waiting for my call. We could go dancing. Dudes!!! I’m not going “dancing” with any of you!!
Drift Inn, Ambergris Caye
I entered Drift Inn (a hostel but with a lovely big private room upstairs), paid a fellow to lug the Beast up the stairs, and locked myself in!! Regrouping then going nearby to Palapa hopefully for food, drink, and some peace.
Dec. 14, 2024 San Pedro, Ambergris Caye – Belizeans are so very friendly! Realizing the men may be a bit forward, but harmless. I went to Wayso over the water for lunch and to psych myself up for the snorkeling in Shark Ray Alley. I wanted to go to Secret Beach, but literally chose swimming with sharks over having to drive my own golf cart to get there.
Snorkel “safari” and swimming with sharks!
I have snorkeled a lot, including off African dhows (wooden boats) all by myself. I don’t think I’ve ever been on a snorkel “safari”! And certainly not with sharks (nurse). This ended up being a most magical experience of true surrender. Brandon, the young captain and snorkel guide, was hilarious and comforting. There were two other couples and me. I brought my own snorkel but they were provided otherwise. I used their fins which I finally am comfortable with after Africa. He had us use life jackets around our waists, were actually a nuisance, and the strap kept brushing my leg and I’d think it was a fish or something more ominous.
Hol Chan Barrier Reef
First stop, Hol Chan barrier reef, Mayan for Channel. It indeed has an amazing channel connecting deep water to the coral reef and seagrass beds where all the fish and other marine life reside. Of course the channel allows bigger creatures to enter… The boat stops at a floating center that monitors the guests visiting the reef.
After jumping awkwardly off the boat in the fins, we followed Brandon through the reef and into the deep channel (creepier). He would find creatures and point them out. Immediately there were schools of fish in the hundreds. As we continued he pointed out an octopus, a lion fish, porcupine fish, a green sea turtle, a few spotted eagle rays, and even a “Christmas worm” that collapses into itself when you get too close. Brandon waited patiently for a giant lager head turtle to emerge from a cave to come up for water. Gorgeous! We swam an entire hour which was both exhausting and exhilarating. As usual, trying to get back into the boat was the most challenging part!
Shark Ray Alley
Now it was the moment of reckoning. We sped along to Shark Ray Alley, then dropped anchor just as the last few boats were leaving. It was only us…and the dozens of nurse sharks greeting the boat. They are used to the sound of the motor arriving. Dozens of other fish surround them. It was intimidating to say the least! You are literally jumping in an aquarium, and YOU are the guest. No photographic evidence sadly.
This was true surrender to nature. An amazing calmness came over me as I floated, observing the school of nurse sharks (6 feet long?) Some with babies (who we were told could actually be the more dangerous as they’re curious). They grazed in the sea beds, like bottom feeders. They had zero interest in us. It was such a surreal experience it’s hard to explain. A storm was coming and the seas were rough, and we were sooooo far from land! Such an adrenaline rush.
Brandon said he’d start the motor again to draw more in. No thanks! All five of us were good with our initial experience and slowly dragged ourselves up the ladder and into the boat. Bonding with strangers, we laughed, ate oranges to combat all the sea water we’d swallowed, and marveled at what we’d just done.
The rain came pelting down and Brandon headed back at top speed. Little did we know that that final stretch was the real kicker. So rough with the rain hitting us like shards of glass. I was wrapped like a mummy in a towel. Brandon, for a laugh or for real, as it was impossible to see, finished it off by putting on his snorkel to take us home. What an incredible adventure!
Christmas Boat Parade
Made it back in time for the Christmas boat parade. It was the most wholesome event with all the locals in their island finest, sprinkled with tourists, all enjoying the thirty or so bedazzled boats. I enjoyed another snapper feast, Creole style, with the requisite “rice and beans” which again is different than the Mexican version. I’m obsessed!
In another slice of life moment, I inadvertently sat in the midst of a very young Mennonite family (of which there is a huge population in Belize) with five little tow head kids and a sixth on the way. They were with a table of about thirty Central American/Mexicans including their families decked out in their Christmas finest for the boat parade. The staff told me they are the workers for the Mennonite owned chicken factory (!) On their annual Christmas staff dinner. All the children mixed together stuffing their faces with pizza and soda.
Grand finale a fireworks show as seen from my hostel/hotel window!
Dec. 15, 2024 San Pedro – Torrential rain again through the morning. Encouraged me to take a breath and chill. Had coffee and “benny” and flap jacks – Belizean style much like a beignet – over the water at Coffee Beanz. Sun is out, now deciding what best to do.
Iguana Sanctuary
Went to the Iguana Sanctuary – a beautiful private space started by Calvin, surrounded by the mangroves that are the iguanas natural habitat. He said they started with two iguanas 17 years ago, and now have a hundred or more. Some were basking in the sun. Once I was still, I realized they were everywhere in the mangroves over head. Fruits are in abundance for the iguanas (and the chickens). It is a true oasis.
Only after my visit did I research and find the sad tale of this sanctuary, a direct effect of the rampant overblown development of the island. From my visit thirty years ago, when I rode a horse (!) now there is nonstop golf cart traffic, impossible to walk around the streets without nearly being run over. Calvin has done everything to try to save his sanctuary (I read some of the previous articles) and then tragically the electric company which owns the nearby land, and backed by the government, did a massive destructive “cleaning” a year ago.
The articles below explain it well, and I couldn’t agree more. These are the reasons we come to other countries, to see and learn about their culture, customs, wildlife, etc., not to turn them into cookie cutter look alike concrete jungles. I encourage anyone to visit Calvin’s slice of iguana heaven, and donate to his cause.
https://www.sanpedroscoop.com/2024/01/year-end-destruction-at-san-pedros-green-iguana-eco-park.html
Palapa
LATER Ended up at Palapa again just for the ocean breeze and happy hour. Rum and cokes for $4. Gorgeous sunset.
Note from earlier: I am noticing more and more, “Table for one? Just you? Only you?” Just. Only. Negative words. “Are you on the island alone?” New answer, “I’m never alone.” Which technically is true as I’m not alone as people are all around me. I’m happy with it. I wish others could accept it!
Belize Christmas Parade
If you want a little joy… watch the Belizean Christmas parade. I couldn’t stop smiling. The whole town of San Pedro came out for this boisterous celebration. Stockings used like trick or treat bags to collect candy (I caught a few grannies joining in the fun). The marching bands are the best. Flip Flop Santa. Everyone lined up in their golf carts to watch. Kids dressed up. A whole family affair.
The next morning it was time to head back on the “water taxi” to Belize City where I would stay one night before heading inland for more Belize adventures!
Stay tuned for Belize Part 2 – the Mainland Adventures!
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