Unico Resort – Maya Riviera, Mexico
As part of my divorce recovery plan, while losing my family home of twenty years, and during the pandemic, in a frenzied state of mind, I bought prepaid vacations in Mexico. So grateful I did. Four years in a row I have been able to take my daughter on a week trip: To Cabo in 2021 (as a delayed university grad trip with her best friends), Puerto Vallarta 2022, Maya Riviera in 2023 and now December 2024 along with her boyfriend and best friend. Very special moments for a nomad empty nester mama!
https://expedia.com/affiliates/kantenah-hotels-unico-20-87-hotel-riviera-maya-adults-only-all-inclusive.0fsNp4J (small commission received)
https://www.expedia.com/shop/second-chapter-nomad for all hotel recs (small commission received)
A week of all-inclusive bliss at the stunning resort. Fine dining restaurants, white sand beach, pools, and I regularly used the gym and spa. Wonderful way to spend the pre-Christmas season.
Xplor Adventure Park – Mexico
Here’s a review of a few of the fun excursions we did from our resort Unico. The four of us spent a day at Xplor adventure park in Playa del Carmen. https://www.xplor.travel/en/
We zip-lined – all 7 of them! Some extremely high and far. I wasn’t nervous of the actual flying over the jungle, but I certainly double checked the harness for any mistakes! The anticipation of the hard stop at the end had me screaming every time. It doesn’t hurt, but the sound is loud and you stop so abruptly, it’s frightening. Relief to have all survived that one!
You have to dress for water activities as well, so I chose my swim suit with a pair of shorts (very necessary to not have the zipline ropes chafing you). Water shoes were a must for the day. Lockers available to leave phone and valuables. We purchased the photo package where you activate the camera with your wristband and take selfies throughout the park. This was the only way to get fun photos, and especially of the action on the zipline!
Next up, amphibious vehicle with Daughter’s BF at the wheel. Long fun ride through the jungle and under a waterfall. Expect to get wet all day!
Three river excursions. First was “obstacle course” with required life jacket and helmet (helmet required all day in park), walking through the underground river (mix of fresh and sea water). Stalagmites growing from the ground, stalactites growing from the ceiling. Next was the raft. We thought that’d be relaxing – nope! Great upper body workout paddling through the caves. Finally, the “river swim”. We thought surely this would be relaxing. Again, no! Hard to swim in a life jacket and helmet. Felt like I survived boot camp. Super fun for all, and great exercise.
COBA ARCHAELOGICAL RUINS
We all did the excursion to Coba archaeological ruins (for me my second time). Slice of life in route through Mexican villages. Daughter and BF rented bikes (about $4 each, cash only) and her BFF and I took the “Mayan taxi” aka “tricycle” with young fellow who carts us about. ($8 for both of us, cash only). With our private tour from the hotel, admission to the park was included. Once again, be sure to have cash (pesos or dollars).
Cenote Kuxtal
We followed this up with a swim in a gorgeous cenote (Kuxtal) all to ourselves, followed by a local buffet lunch. (Cenotes are deep sinkholes in limestone with a pool at the bottom that is found especially in Yucatán).
Cirque du Soleil Joya – Mexico
Made it back in time for Cirque du Soleil Joya, with a three course over the top dinner and show. Late night, but loads of fun. Daughter and I tried the fried grasshoppers among the other delicacies. Wonderful memories made and time spent together. A nomad’s dream. I may not have a traditional home, but I get to spend special quality time with loved ones all over the world.
Not ready to say Adios to Mexico just yet
This last trip wasn’t the first time that I was reinvigorated and reminded of the life I used to live, when I was a “normal” mom, and a homeowner, in a financially secure life. This December trip gave me pause at as it came to a close and I realized that this would be the first Christmas ever that I wouldn’t have either of my kids with me for the holidays. I wouldn’t have the “Rogue” (from Scotland) who had given me companionship for the previous four painful holiday seasons out of the family home, as he had chosen to stay home this year.
I got online and changed my flight, not the first time I’ve been known to do that while embracing a far flung adventure. No longer with the security of my prepaid all-inclusive, it was time to venture out alone – inexpensively. I asked the staff at the hotel in Spanish, and many recommended Bacalar in route to Belize. So as my daughter and guests departed Mexico, I was on a bus bound for Bacalar!
Various travel tips for Mexico:
Carry local currency.
Small bills for tips goes a long way.
Order taxis from hotels, restaurants etc. rather than randomly from the street.
Ask advice from locals.
Leave extra time for errors or mishaps.
Patience!
Be open to pivot along the way.
Embrace the thrill of adventure and the unknown.
Prebook bus online to avoid long line.
Don’t travel at night. Check arrival times.
Ask tourists and locals for advice upon arrival.
The “old days” of travel
When I was 26 years old I was on a soul searching quest, deciding whether to leave my Hermosa Beach life to get married and move to Cleveland, Ohio. I was a bilingual teacher, teaching kindergarten in Spanish in Los Angeles. We were on a year round schedule so I had a large break in the winter. I went with my college roommate for a month to travel by local buses around Mexico (Yucatan, Chiapas), Guatemala and Belize. No internet, no phones, no computers! A paperback tour guide, Traveller’s Cheques, and collect calls on pay phones to call home and let them know I was “alive”. Haha.
Now, over 30 years later, as my kids have flown the nest and this is the first Christmas in their 26 and 28 years that I won’t see them, I decided to fly solo on another adventure.
Solo Mama Sets Off
I bust out of the five star all-inclusive gates by taxi (ordered by hotel – safety first!) from Riviera Maya to Tulum (about $50). I had gotten advice from the local staff at the hotel to go to Bacalar, an “up and coming” Mexican town on a laguna (seven colors… say no more!). They told me the bus was comfortable and safe. I booked online for the three hour journey on https://www.ado.com.mx/ ADO bus company, Tulum – Bacalar direct. Reserved seat. Suitcase safely stored underneath. Bring your own snacks and water. I’m not sure if the bathroom was working on board, it wasn’t at the Bacalar bus station. An odd thing was Leo’s “Killers of the Flower Moon” was blaring overhead – in Spanish – the entire ride.
Upon arrival at the ADO station in Bacalar, I quickly assessed I couldn’t walk to my hotel with my large suitcase and busy, dusty roads. An ADO attendant secured a taxi and negotiated the price ($2.50!). The price is right here in Bacalar.
Casa Chukum, Bacalar
It was a quick journey to my boutique hotel Casa Chukum I found on a blog https://www.booking.com/Share-z8HUYep.
Casa Chukum is a dream! It reminds me of my “Casa de Coco” days (in the blog, 2020 Airbnb during the pandemic) full of quirky decor. Flashy Christmas meets tropical jungle vibes.
Quick assessment is Bacalar is like Tulum of yesteryear (Tulum is now extremely expensive, with clubby vibes, overbuilt in an unattractive manner). Bacalar is super chill, with a lot of European backpacker types, young families, and expats visiting from other places like Mexico City.
La Playita
I walked two blocks to La Playita restaurant on the lake (laguna). Ate delicious fish, rice and veggies and watched the sunset. Immediately feel safe here. Everyone from local staff to other travelers extremely friendly and helpful.
Writing this on Wednesday, during a rainstorm with tropical thunder. Perfect because every Wednesday they close the lake for an environmental break to protect the ecosystem. I get to relax, read and write, catch up on work, and make some further travel plans! I also did a nomad dream – laundry!
I enjoyed the breakfast of endless coffee, fresh fruit, and delicious avocado toast and cooked veggies. Chatted with the owner Deborah, originally from Mexico City, and learned her story. They opened in 2019, so you know that story! Her parents are visiting and helping out. Their friendly dogs and cats roam about. As you can see in the photos, it is like being in someone’s home, warm and comfy.
The room (with A/C) has a super comfy king size bed, and I slept deeply (apart from the thunder!). (Approx. $60/night including taxes etc. I see it’s higher now). This is a perfect digital nomad place, with great WiFi, free flowing purified water, coffee, tea. I’m getting advice from Deborah about how best to travel to Belize from here. Tomorrow I booked a sailboat to explore the lake (and Pirate’s canal!). I did hear there are crocodiles which are one thing that freaks me out! Hmmm… I do want to snorkel at some point.
History of Bacalar
Dec. 12, 2024 After the storm, skies still gray, I explored the very quiet small town of Bacalar. Walked around the Fort (Fuerte de San Felipe de Bacalar) which was built by the Spanish to guard against the pirates…. The English pirates from Belize! Also from the expansionist threat from the English colony of Jamaica.
(Belize is an English speaking country, a British colony since 1862 then called British Honduras! It only gained its independence in 1981 and was renamed Belize in 1973. Of course it was originally inhabited by the Mayan people since early BC.)
I find this history fascinating. I ate some fresh vegan food at Chile & Mango, and really enjoyed their sign 🙂
I loved Mr. Taco a block from my hotel. Cheap and delicious. I love how in Mexico they often have a purse stand by your table.
Laguna Bacalar
Even though it was still stormy, I wasn’t leaving Bacalar without taking a boat ride on the Bacalar Lagoon (de Siete Colores – 7 colors). I chose to go by tiny sailboat. A young couple from Quebec, and two crew, and me. We sailed first over the Cenote Esmeralda.
The four cenotes of extreme depths cause the water color changes. The water in the lagoon is fresh, not salt. The most stromatolites in the world grow here (up to 10,000 years old). I’d never heard of them. They’re very delicate. You’re not allowed to wear sunscreen in the lagoon, and they close it entirely to boats every Wednesday to help protect the eco system.
Pirates Canal
Next up, we dropped anchor at the Pirates Canal. Using the ancient Mayan canals as their gateway, pirates (English pirates!) embarked on raids, sailing from the Caribbean coast through a network of waterways to wreak havoc on the unsuspecting city of Bacalar. We were told to jump off the boat and stay out for 25 minutes. It was chilly, but I did as told. No photos of this swim session.
Next we slowly sailed over Black Cenote which was very dark water until it turned a gorgeous green as seen in my photos.
Finally we dropped anchor near “Bird Island”. We were told to jump in again, and at this point we were quite cold. I wasn’t going to until the Captain said, “I’ll take your photo in the water this time…” Okay, okay, you got me! In I went. Getting off (jumping in the water) and getting back up onto the boat were the biggest challenges! The crew gave us a delicious tray of fresh fruit with tajin as our reward.
We sailed back at what should’ve been sunset, but was a mix of gray. What an adventure!
Tomorrow… quest to reach Belize!
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