Take off! California to Zanzibar! (Later Dar es Salaam with stops in Nungwi and Mnemba Island)
(From my journals… After being locked down since March 2020, and unable to see my son who was living in Ireland, I decided with a week’s notice to fly to Zanzibar to meet him and his girlfriend. This decision led to a life changing adventure. Here is the first of five parts of Tanzania Tales – Africa during a pandemic and a divorce. Zanzibar Dreams to follow has six parts.) (Important part of my journey!)
Quarantine Chronicles Part 8 – Casa de Coco – (Before Africa)(Opens in a new browser tab) (Previous post)
July 30, 2020 First of four flights to get to Zanzibar! Going to see my son and his GF. So excited.
When I left, my parents gave me a hug, actual human touch! It felt supernatural after over six months without hugging them. What a gift. Masks Up. Crazy times. I’m checking out of the toxic parts of life; ready for good vibes, manifesting great things. Pleasant overnight in a hotel in D.C.
July 31, 2020 In the air to Ethiopia!! Surreal. Going to write. Be inspired. Start over.
August 21, 2020 Ready to finally post: (Kept my journey a secret for awhile in pandemic times)
22 days ago I embarked on a journey halfway around the world to finally see my son and his GF, and celebrate their graduations. After three days, and four flights (through Ethiopia), I met my son in Zanzibar off the coast of Tanzania, Africa! We spent two weeks together traveling through Zanzibar, and off the coast of Dar es Salaam, then inland to Moshi and Arusha, including an epic camping (!!) safari through the Serengeti and Ngoro Ngoro Crater. A week ago his GF arrived and was thrust right into the action. It has been a soul lifting, life changing journey. Memories for a lifetime.
I have overcome personal challenges and learned to go “pole pole” (slow down). Lowering “Western” expectations every day. Embracing dirt, sweat, mosquitos, and African toilets (still working on that one). Riding on the back of boda bodas (motorcycle taxis), and in bijajs (tuk tuks). Learning new Swahili every day. “Chakula katam!” “Maisha marefu!” A few of my favorites). Slept in a tent – by myself!! – with lions and hyenas stalking the camp. Long hikes, three crazy “snorkeling excursions” on local “dhows” (wooden fishing boats).
Meeting the friendliest, most helpful people. Tanzanians are grateful we’re here and full of hope that more tourists will come back, as their economy depends on it. The people are really struggling. Their message is “karibu!” (welcome).
Yesterday I left my son and his GF to their own adventures for a bit, and am back in Zanzibar alone. Writing a new script, “Meet me in Zanzibar”. So inspired. Time to put Africa on film.
Days 1-6 (of 25 so far) Zanzibar
Let’s go back… July 30 I departed with excitement/apprehension for 4 flights over 3 days, via Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. So excited to see my son, but traveling masked up so far in a pandemic is not for the faint of heart. Negative COVID tests to enter Tanzania. Stepping foot onto Zanzibar (island off the coast of Africa) and seeing my son was everything. He has lived in Ireland for 4 years. These past three weeks of quality time together are memories for a lifetime.
We stayed at a local AirBnB he had found in the heart of the dusty, hectic city. Culture shock at every turn. It was the Muslim holiday Eid, and the festival was in full swing with the women and girls decked out in their colorful finest. The call to prayer bellowed all through the night. We went to the night market, and night 1 we were interviewed on the main news station. Very quickly learned the basic Swahili greetings which is a rollicking sing song every day. “Mambo!” “Poa!” “Harabi!” “Mazuri!” “Karibu!” “Asante!”.
Food and Henna
King fish, bao bab sweets, ugali (starch you roll and eat with your hands), sakuma (sauteed collard greens) and chicken (“kuku” – not to be mixed with “kaka” which is to call a waiter… more than once I have called a waiter kuku – chicken – to many laughs). These are some of the basic food staples (delicious – chakula katam!).
We explored Zanzibar city, the fort and port. I got a henna tattoo from a young teen mother. At the Eid festival children swarmed and we bought hard boiled eggs for an enormous group. Puts life in perspective when an egg is the treat they wanted.
Embracing dirt, humidity and culture right away. Little did I know what was coming in the following days!
Prison Island
Day 5 took the first of many dhows (wooden fishing boats) out to Prison Island (sadly where the slave trade put the slaves in quarantine – yes quarantine! – before putting them on ships to Europe, Arabia and elsewhere. Very sobering.
Now it is a giant tortoise sanctuary with some 100 years old!
I faced my fears of using fins and jumping off the boat into the clear turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean to snorkel.
Days 6-8 (of 26) Africa – Nungwi and Mnemba Island
Our new friend/driver Arish took us across the island of Zanzibar to Nungwi. We stayed at a lovely resort Aluna (Moon!), but most everything in town was still shut down due to Covid. Our German AirBnB owner Petra accompanied us for the adventure. The car dodged cows, goats and children. Stopped by the police, for the first of countless times. A poverty stricken town, where we definitely stood out.
The beach had a dramatic tide. We walked out amongst the fishing boats beached in the sand. Ate fresh fish and avocado salad every day. My son went on an adventurous cycling tour with Kombo while I did a “Christmas Paws” rewrite (script).
Next day we had our second snorkeling adventure on a dhow out to Mnemba Island – a private island we were not allowed to set foot on. Only could snorkel off shore. In route we were sure we were approached by a pirate ship. Still don’t know what it was. We’re down the coast from Somalia, so not out of the realm of possibility. Felt like the Perfect Storm movie as the waves rocked and rolled with our dhow tossing to and fro. Jumped off into the Indian Ocean for a snorkel. Then went ashore to another white sand beach where our boatman filleted and cooked a fresh tuna he had caught. Delicious. “Chakula Katam!”.
Ferry to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania
Next day Arish drove us back to Zanzibar City to the port where we caught the ferry to Dar es Salaam. What an experience. Got a taxi there. The driver then drove on yet another super local ferry and told us to hop out; he would keep our bags. Such a sketchy feeling. No choice. Super stressful keeping an eye on the taxi trying to see which ferry he drove on so we wouldn’t miss our bags. Felt like such a rookie tourist move. Hundreds and hundreds of locals including students running to fill the ferry. All’s well that ends well. We stalked the taxi from beginning to end and caught up with him on the other side to retrieve our bags. Taxi continued on with us to Kikipeo Beach, south of Dar es Salaam, mainland Tanzania… to be continued!
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